Meet the partners: RISE

The shift toward a circular textile economy is not just about new technologies—it is about the people who dedicate their expertise to making sustainable innovation a reality. Within the BioSusTex project, a multidisciplinary team from the Research Institutes of Sweden (RISE) is working to solve some of the biggest challenges in textile sustainability. Their focus is on developing better fibre recycling methods, replacing hazardous chemicals, and improving sustainability assessments. Together, they are shaping a future where textiles are no longer part of the waste problem but a core component of the circular economy.

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At the heart of fibre-to-fibre recycling efforts are Nadine Hollinger and Diana Reyes Forsberg, who are working to refine the viscose process to allow dope-dyed textiles to be reprocessed without losing colour or mechanical strength. Their work builds on past research into pre-consumer white viscose and extends it to dyed fibres, an important step toward improving the recyclability of textiles at an industrial scale.

Another challenge in fibre recycling is the removal of elastane from cotton/elastane blends—a crucial step in making blended fabrics more recyclable. This task falls to Anna Edsberger and Zengwei Guo, researchers specializing in polymer recycling and the development of biobased polymers. Their work within WP1 is crucial for enabling more complex textiles to be reprocessed and reintegrated into new production cycles.

Beyond fibre recycling, another major focus in BioSusTex is the replacement of PFAS-based durable water repellent (DWR) coatings with sustainable alternatives. Mikael Järn, a senior researcher with expertise in surface chemistry, is leading Work Package 3 (WP3) within the project. His role is focused on developing functional coatings and textile treatments that align with the broader goal of sustainability. The solutions developed under WP3 will help ensure that future textiles maintain performance while minimizing their environmental footprint. PFAS chemicals, while effective at repelling water, are persistent pollutants with serious environmental and health risks. Addressing this issue is a team including Mikael Kjellin, Maziar Sedighi Moghaddam, and Natalia Anna Wojas, who are developing PFAS-free coatings that maintain high-performance standards while eliminating hazardous substances. Ensuring that these formulations meet industrial durability and functionality requirements is the work of Karin Hallstensson and Mikael Sundin, who specialize in testing and characterization techniques. Their expertise in analytical methods ensures that new formulations are not just theoretical improvements but viable solutions for commercial use.

Steffen Schellenberger, an expert on PFAS, contributes through his work with the Safe and Sustainable by Design (SSbD) framework. Alongside him, Nina Melander, an advisor at the Swedish Substitution Centre, also supports the project through her involvement with SSbD, ensuring that sustainability is integrated at the design phase of chemical and material innovation.

Jens Haraldsson, a research engineer with extensive experience in material and surface science, contributes to textile impregnation techniques. His work ensures that newly developed coatings and treatments can be effectively applied to textiles in ways that maintain long-term performance and environmental benefits. His role is key in bridging the gap between laboratory research and industrial application.

In addition to material innovations, BioSusTex is enhancing how environmental impact is assessed. Swapnil Chavan, an expert in computational toxicology, is working on integrating in silico modelling into Life Cycle Assessments (LCA) of textile chemicals. By improving predictive models and closing data gaps, his research allows for more accurate sustainability assessments, helping industries make informed decisions about chemical use. This approach not only benefits BioSusTex but also connects to wider sustainability initiatives, where similar methodologies are being applied to the pharmaceutical sector.

Guiding the project’s strategic direction and ensuring that research aligns with industrial needs is Juhanes Aydin, who serves as a scientific advisor. His role is critical in bridging technical innovation with commercial feasibility, ensuring that the solutions developed within BioSusTex are not only scientifically robust but also practical for large-scale adoption. The project’s coordination is in the hands of Anna-Karin Hellström, Anne-Charlotte Hanning and Adriana Angelaccio Osbeck, who facilitate collaboration across research teams and ensure that the project meets its broader sustainability objectives.

What makes BioSusTex so exciting for those involved is the chance to work within a multidisciplinary, international consortium where expertise from different fields converges to solve real-world problems. The diversity of knowledge—ranging from fibre chemistry to digital sustainability assessments—creates a rich environment for innovation. The project’s work not only offers immediate applications in recycling and chemical replacement but also lays the groundwork for long-term advancements in sustainable textile production.

As BioSusTex progresses, the people behind it remain committed to ensuring that its innovations make a lasting impact. From improved fibre recycling and PFAS-free textile treatments to better sustainability assessment tools, the project is helping to create a textile industry that is both environmentally responsible and economically viable. By combining technical expertise, industrial collaboration, and a shared vision for a circular economy, the researchers and engineers at RISE are leading the way toward a more sustainable future—one breakthrough at a time.