Meet the partners: Stockholm University

Stockholm University (SU) plays a vital role in the BioSusTex project by contributing advanced expertise in analytical chemistry to assess the chemical safety and sustainability of textile innovations. With a strong research foundation in hazardous substances and consumer product safety, SU supports the project through the development and application of high-sensitivity screening methods, contributing critical data to inform risk assessments, life cycle analysis (LCA) and Safe and Sustainable by Design (SSbD) strategies.

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The team is led by two key researchers. Professor Ulrika Nilsson, an expert in target and non-target analysis of chemicals in post-consumer textiles and wastewater, plays a central role in advancing the project’s analytical capabilities. She has developed a unique method for identifying chemicals present in textile waste, which is particularly relevant for assessing the chemical footprint of recycled materials. Her research focuses on understanding the presence, behaviour, and health impact of skin-sensitizing and potentially hazardous compounds in textiles, supporting the goal of safer circular textile systems. Prof. Nilsson also oversees the PhD programme in analytical chemistry at SU.

Working alongside her is Dr. Tim Åström, postdoctoral researcher, who defended his PhD in June 2025 at Stockholm University. Dr. Åström has developed advanced mass spectrometry-based screening techniques for hazardous chemicals in textiles and upcycling processes. His expertise in fast, high-throughput analytical methods allow for efficient tracking of chemicals across textile life cycles, contributing essential data for toxicity and environmental impact assessments.

SU’s contribution to BioSusTex is focused on detecting and evaluating the presence and fate of hazardous chemicals in textiles and process streams. This capability is essential for supporting the safe development of new bio-based materials, and ensuring they meet health and environmental criteria throughout their life cycle. The team’s rapid screening techniques are particularly useful for identifying skin-sensitising compounds, a class of chemicals known to contribute to contact allergies through dermal absorption.

A central challenge addressed by SU is demonstrating that sustainable textile materials are free from toxic or allergenic substances, a critical requirement for enabling true circularity in the sector. Their screening methodology provides an efficient, scalable solution to monitor chemical safety in both new and recycled textiles.

This work is closely aligned with SU’s broader sustainability objectives. The university maintains a strong institutional focus on green chemistry, sustainable materials and environmental health, and BioSusTex supports the continued development of research and education in these areas. The collaborative, multidisciplinary nature of the consortium also opens the door for new partnerships and future research directions.

Stockholm University brings a solid foundation of prior research to the project. Its team has previously identified hundreds of hazardous or potentially hazardous chemicals in garments on the Swedish and European markets and has studied their transfer to skin, absorption, and biological effects. These insights provide valuable context for the evaluations conducted within BioSusTex. Ultimately, SU is excited to contribute to the development of consumer-safe garments and improved textile circularity, using robust chemical analysis as a foundation for innovation in sustainable textile production.